Woke at 6.15, feeling slightly jaded. It had been a late night, and the sound of post party clearing up went on till 1am. Good job I had been there dancing so could feel I had a share in it, otherwise it might have been annoying as I tried to get to sleep.
Compared with the luxurious splendour of Cinque Cerri last night's room looks positively monastic. But fine as it's only a place to sleep.
Today is also looking cloudy, this is the charming view from my bedroom window.
An early 7.30 breakfast, but probably unnecessary as today promises a cooler 22 degrees and less than 9 miles. Almost a rest day. Our picnics for the day arrive. As befits the shortest day it is the heaviest picnic. I had ordered one cheese and one omelette sandwhich. Last night we thought omelette sandwich meant egg. I now think it means an omelette. We agree a 9am start
Anita posts her postcard, with the stamp purchased in Bologna. Chris then goes to enquire at our hotel whether there is a pharmacy in the village. Her insect bites have really swollen up. No pharmacy but they put some magic lotion onto her bites.
We take a picture of us outside the hotel and are off. False start. Chris has forgotten her walking pole and has to go back and start again. Finally on the move by 9.15.
It's a nice route out, passing hens, rabbits, goats and a donkey.
Our v slow start means that Mona and Winnie soon catch us up, and we walk together for a while.
Today's mud arrives early
but we are heartened to see that Firenze has started to appear on the route markers
It's a short day and we are determined to take it easy, have lots of stops, sit in the sun, take in the views etc. A pile of logs in the sunshine is a good place to rest a while and explore the contents of our picnics.
The early walking is through coniferous woodland. The views are limited, but the birdsong is very noticeable. Very different from UK conifer forests which can be very quiet. I suspect it's because the planting is far less dense here.
We cross the border between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany
Still walking through woodland, but it is now deciduous, with oak, beech, and chestnut. Nice and open, dappled sunlight, flowers, birds. There is the almost constant sound of cuckoos calling, which has been noticeable for several days. They are clearly common here.
We see our first cow. Only a picture
Strange, because the wildflower meadows look to be made for grazing cows.
Stop for lunch in a picnic area in the shade of some trees. There is an extremely long concrete table, and also a nearby spring. The water is cool and tastes very fresh. I investigate my omelette
It is indeed an omelette sandwich. And very tasty.
The rest of the day is spent in undulating woodland,
with the occasional view of other wooded hillsides. The final climb of the day up Le Banditacce seems to go on for ever. Still in woodland, with the occasional more open area
We finally get to the top. It's all downhill from here. We leave the Via Degli Dei to descend to the little village of Traversa, where we are booked into La Jolanda, described as an inn. Off the main route the path is less distinct, with only occasional waymarks, and often blocked by dead wood and fallen branches.
The highlight of this section for me was observing a totally white spider devouring a fly. David Attenborough, eat your heart out.
Arrive at our inn at the remarkably early time of 15.20. Beer in the warm sunshine, as I write this blog.
Shower and change for dinner. We are put on a table for five with Winnie and Mona, no questions asked and we do as we are told. We opt for red wine and a 1.5l bottle of wine is planned on the table. No questions asked and we do as we are told. We can choose entree, primi, second I and dolci. We know this is daunting so try and do the best we can. I order something unknown with fennel, we all have the trio of pasta, Winnie goes for a pork chop, and vegetables are mandatory.
My fennel surprise turns out to be an enormous plate of cooked meat. Flavoured with fennel. The pasta dishes are really really good. There is a fourth dish, tagliatelle with wild boar which is probably the best of the lot. Then vegetables, deep fried vegetables, and chips all arrive. Far too much. But the veg are really good, full of flavour and most are eaten. Most of the deep fried veg and all of the chips are left.
I manage to squeeze down some profiteroles, which are the best I've ever had, and then it’s just the limoncello and we are free to go.
Best meal yet
The wildflowers look amazing and I bet they smell even better. You all seem very relaxed and happy. I’m glad that you have had such great weather so far and are really enjoying your walk. Love your blog and the pics are great. Keep up the good work.
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